Thatched Living

Questions	Answers
I am having trouble with my thatched roof. It was covered with nylon net, but, in the course of time and because of winds, the net has broken, and birds are now stripping my roof. Can I claim this repair on my house insurance?	If you have a comprehensive policy on the building and the damage to the net has been caused entirely by a storm, that you probably have a justifiable claim. On the other hand, if the net was broken through normal wear and tear and gradual depreciation, then, unfortunately, you would have no claim on your policy. Also, it is likely that the company would entertain any claim for the damage caused by the birds stripping the roof.
What methods are now common, or recommended, to provide fire resistance in the treatment of timber?	The most commonly used simple chemical is mon-ammonium phosphate, which is the basis of a great number of fire resistant processes. There are two entirely different methods of making wood fire resistant. One is impregnation, in the same way as you would use a preservative, in a pressure cylinder. The second method is by painting with a fire-resistant compound having a silica base, or another type of base; the former is rather heavy and thick and adds to the weight of the timber, but gives a good fire resistance. There are dozens of fire proofing compounds. A few are used on a large commercial scale, but most of them are based on the same chemical. Borax is another chemical used – and boracic acid.
I have a cottage that adjoins another person's garden - the boundary is a wall belonging to me. Recently, this wall has got into a bad condition and I have pulled part of it down and marked the boundary by a post of rails. The owner of the adjoining garden says that the wall is a boundary wall and that I must rebuild it. As the wall is mine, it seems to me that I am under no obligation to do so.	As the wall is yours, erected as it is on your land, and as there can be no covenant by you to maintain the wall for the benefit of your neighbour, you have an unfettered discretion concerning it. You may remove it wholly and leave your land unfenced, you may replace it by such other boundary structure as you think fit, or you may leave it without troubling about its deterioration by wind and weather. In short, your neighbour exceeds his right by dictating what you should do.
Can you tell me whether weathercocks on the top of a house are any more likely to draw lightning than, say, television aerials?	Any metal object projecting into the atmosphere simulates a lightning-conductor component. A weathercock is the equivalent of an air terminal rod but has no down conductor to carry the current to the ground. A television aerial has a wire leading to the set, and, through it, to earth via the electric installation, but it is quite inadequate to carry a lightning discharge safely, so that consequential damage will occur in both cases if the building is struck. But neither can be said to 'attract' lightning, other than within a very localised field, viz, if the building is struck it is usually the highest point that takes the discharge, and, of course, the higher the object the greater the risk. The safest way in both cases is to provide an earthed conducting path externally.
We are troubled in our old Tudor house with woodworm of various sorts and furniture beetle in nearly all rooms. Once I read an article saying that if one put a block of alder wood of the right age in rooms and changed it annually, the beetles would always lay their eggs for preference on this alder and gradually disappear. Is this true?	We are rather inclined to think that the use of alder as an inducement for woodworm to lay their eggs is rather an old wives' tale. It is possible that woodworm may have been attracted by this wood, but we feel that it is unlikely that they would go around looking for it.
I am shortly moving house and I'd be grateful if you could tell me whether I can hang my 18th century paintings above or near central heating radiators.	It would be wise to keep the pictures away from the radiators and certainly to avoid hanging them immediately above.
I live in a thatched timber cottage, and on many occasions have had to remonstrate, as on three sides of the house bonfires have been lit in high winds and without consideration of the direction of the wind. I still have a neighbour who burns his garden refuse piled on a bedstead supported some four feet from the ground - using paraffin - and spurts high ashes only 30 yards from my cottage. Could you let me know what the law is regarding damage caused by bonfires?	These are the points of law in respect of the lighting of bonfires that might menace your cottage: 1. If your neighbour allows the escape of fire from his bonfire so that it damages your cottage he incurs the liability to compensate you. This liability would extend to such loss as is not covered by your insurance; and your insurers would be able to claim against him for what they paid you. 2. To prevent such happening, you could, in the event of your being unable to persuade your neighbour to move the apparatus, ask a County Court Judge to make a Declaratory Judgement that the proximity to your cottage of the menace constitutes a nuisance and should cease.
We have moved into an old thatched house where the chimney smokes incessantly it seems to us, but worst when the wind is from the south-west. The local builder says that the previous owners were always tinkering with the chimney, which has been extended in height and had various cowls fitted, apparently without improvement. Can you suggest anything?	You must first establish without doubt the worst quarter for the wind, which may vary from chimney to chimney. Then cut a hole in the side of the chimney facing the wind direction that gives most trouble. Make the hole as low down as possible but sloping upwards into the vent of the chimney. To make a neat job, insert a field drainpipe in the hole and make good around it. The wind blowing into the hole causes a draft upwards; the stronger the wind, the better the draft. Put wire mesh in the pipe to keep birds out.
I see in an article about fire prevention that mirrors should not be fixed over open fireplaces. This, of course, is where they are usually put. Is this an old wives' tale or is there a logical explanation? I am intrigued to know what it is.	The answer is that this is purely a precautionary measure against accidents by fire. We cannot emphasise too strongly how dangerous it is to place a mirror directly over a fire; a person has little option but to lean over the fire in order to look at themselves in it. More accidents occur in the home than anywhere else.
Where can I obtain advice on how to clean some very old tapestry that has become very dirty through dust settling on it over a period of years?	The Victorian and Albert Museum suggests getting a hand suction cleaner, applying this carefully to the back of the canvas. The front should be treated in the same way, but, in view of the fragile condition, it would be advisable to cover the hanging first of all with a fabric mesh such as a piece of embroidery canvas with an open weave. This method will free superficial dirt, but there would be no remarkable improvement in the general condition. The ideal method would be to wash the embroidery if this could be done without risk of breaking the threads. It is, however, very important to make sure beforehand that the colours are fast. This can be done by testing small areas. Only soft water (preferably distilled) should be used. A soap known as saponin gives particularly good results. Alternatively, dry cleaning methods are indicated but, without examination of the physical condition of the hangings, it is difficult to give a safe opinion on either of these methods.
Do I have to fence my property or maintain its boundaries?	No; except along the highway or in order to keep in your livestock. You are not obliged to keep anyone or anything out.
We have recently had our house re-thatched with Norfolk reed. We are concerned to find that the birds are now attacking it in several places.	It is sometimes necessary to cover thatch with fine wire netting to protect it from birds. It is possible that some airborne insects were attracted to the thatch, thus causing the birds to arrive and attack it.
I have a holly hedge, running up both sides of the drive for a distance of about 180 yards. Since I took this place over two years ago, I have cut it back once, and pruned it once. It is now not quite so big as it was, but its dimensions are roughly 7 to 8 feet high and about 4 feet across. It is growing broader and more unmanageable at the top, and losing its foliage at the bottom. It now takes a quite unnecessary amount of labour and time and petrol to prune it, and I am anxious to reduce it to a more manageable size, say 4 feet by 2 to 2 and a half feet across. This operation will presumably take a year or two to carry out, but I am anxious to get on with it as soon as possible. Would you very kindly advise on this operation in general, and, in particular, when I should begin, and how many years will it take to get the hedge down to the above proportions without undue damage.	This operation may take three years to carry out successfully. Cut back one side fairly hard next May after all fear of frost is past. Do this preferably with a pair of secateurs. Then the following year cut back the other side quite hard, in fact to the desired width, again using secateurs. In the third year you can reduce the height of the hedge by about two feet, and, if you wish do it again the following year, lower still. We do not advise the use of a mechanical hedge cutter, as this never cuts to a 'joint' but just anywhere.
I have heard that yew trees are poisonous to farm animals, yet they grow in large numbers around the countryside. Can you please tell me whether this is so, and if it applies equally to all varieties of yew and to all animals - also what the poison is?	All varieties of the British yew trees are poisonous, but, owing to its more frequent cultivation, the common yew is most often responsible for outbreaks of poisoning among animals. The Irish yew and the Yellow yew appear to contain less of the poisonous principle, which is called Taxine, and is an alkaloid. The bark, leaves and seeds all contain the active toxic principle, the leaves usually being the parts eaten. The older dark green leaves, especially if these have been cut off and left to wither for some hours, are more dangerous than the fresh young shoots, which cattle have been known to eat in small amounts without harm. Cases of poisoning have been noted among horses, asses, cattle, sheep, goats and pigs. The majority of cases occur in cattle.
Should pvc cables in the roof void under thatch be laid in metal conduits? Also, would a trip (RCD - residual current device) be certain to cut off the current and prevent a possible fire if a rodent should gnaw through the power cables in a roof void?	A spokesman for the Institution of Electrical Engineers said: 'Metal conduits are not necessary in order to comply with current wiring regulations.' 'A trip is designed as a shock prevention measure. It is not specifically a fire prevention device. If a cable should be gnawed through, the trip will assist, but it will not guarantee preventing a fire.'
Our Grade Two Listed cottage needs re-thatching. Can we apply for a grant and how do we go about it?'	An expert replies: 'Many, but by no means all, district councils run historic building grant schemes, but the amount of money they are able, or willing, to offer differs widely. 'If your local authority does operate such a scheme there are a number of conditions that might apply. Typical questions you might be asked are: 'How long have you lived in the property?' 'Are you a tenant or an owner occupier?' and "what is the style of thatch you propose to have on your roof?' 'In general local authorities are becoming much stricter on both style and how thatching is carried out. Your first port of call is the conservation officer, or any official in the planning department of your local district council.'
I am in the process of buying a thatched cottage. The building society survey reports that the asbestos sheeting under the thatch may need removing for health and safety reasons. However, the asbestos is in sound condition and does, of course, give protection from fire. Can you advise which course of action to take - removal or retention?	A spokesman for the government's Building Research Establishment said the first course would be to obtain a copy of Asbestos Materials in Buildings, published by HMSO. It costs £7.95 (cheques payable to Stationery Office Books) from Stationery Office Books, PO Box 276, London SW8 5DT. In general, the spokesman said, sheet or board asbestos materials such as that in Mr Worthington's roof, are unlikely to produce health hazards. It is soft asbestos material with a friable Quality (such as old lagging material) that is more likely to be a danger to health and require expert removal.
I live in a thatched cottage that is in the middle of a terrace of three. Together with my neighbours, I believe there are rats in the thatch and I should like this problem resolved before I get my roof re-thatched. Would the fact that I have a water tank in my roof attract the rats to my thatch rather than my neighbours? When we have been visited by environmental health officers in the past they have put poison in the roof. But we can do this equally well ourselves. What would you advise?	A master thatcher says: 'Thatch is warm. If it is a straw roof there will almost certainly be some grain left in it, providing a source of food for rodents. If rats get into the roof and have a supply of food and water they will not come out - certainly not in winter. 'If there is no water supply they will attempt to get out to find one. The first point, then, is to cover your water tank well. If the rats can get in and out easily they will do so. If they cannot get out, and there is no water, they will eventually die. 'If rats have difficulty getting out of a roof they can cause great damage. Holes will appear on the outside surface of the thatch where they have gnawed through to the surface and been unable to escape through the wire. This is distressing for the owner, the thatcher - and the rats! 'The answer can be traps - but poison is best. Wiring will in general help to keep rats out of your thatched roof. However, rats can climb walls, which is why they are a perennial problem in thatched buildings.'
My fiancee and I recently became the proud owners of a thatched cottage. Can you imagine the disappointment we felt when we inherited a terrible 'fousty' smell upstairs? It was coming from a bedroom where the ceiling had been replaced with hardboard between the beams about 20 years ago. The hardboard had been badly fixed and there were cracks between the panels. A draught, probably emanating from under the eaves of the building, was entering the bedroom through the gaps in the ceiling, bringing with it the smell, that came from the thatch. The smell was quite pungent at times but my fiancee managed to cure it by spending the better part of two weeks with a mastic gun sealing all the cracks from below.	Our DIY expert writes: 'It sounds as though this treatment has been successful. An alternative would have been to create a second ceiling, either at a lower level, or, probably better from an aesthetic point of view, above the existing ceiling. Sometimes thatch dwellers experience really quite foul musty smells that occur from time to time. Sometimes they are inexplicable and people put them down to a ghostly presence. However, if the smell is really foul before eventually disappearing it is often the corpse of a rodent that is responsible. 'The word 'fousty' means that the inside of the thatch has at some stage been wet, then dried out. Old thatch has a smell of its own, but it is not an unpleasant odour – neither damp nor musty.'
I am on income support and cannot afford to re-thatch the roof of my Grade Two listed, 17th century semi-detached thatched cottage.	You must contact your local district council to investigate whether there is a grant scheme in operation in your area that covers your circumstances. Some councils also offer repair and maintenance grants, which might be available for repairs to a thatch that is in a poor state.
The thatch on the cottage I have owned since 1984 has been badly affected by the sticky droppings from a row of six 80ft high lime trees that stand nearby. The trees stand on parish council-owned land but the council is permitted only to trim them, not remove them altogether, because they are in a conservation area. Is there any way I can persuade the council to lop these trees further?	A council spokesman said: 'We would look at some further pruning work if we were to be approached, but we would not want to be rushed into substantial work that would ruin the appearance of the trees.' A master thatcher writes: 'Generally, all trees are bad news for thatch if they are too close to the roof. Trees stop air movement, which means that the section of thatch nearby does not get a chance to dry out in the daytime. And thatch rots when there is moisture present. 'The questioner has indicated that some branches are only about 10 feet away from her roof, which is very close. At this distance, trees will drop debris that can be harmful to thatch. Lime trees are known for dropping a large Quantity of 'honeydew'. This is a sticky substance that comes from the excreta of the aphids that like to suck the sap out of lime leaves. Bacteria and fungi known to attack wheat straw feed on honeydew.'
I have been plagued by a green woodpecker pulling out handfuls of straw from a recently thatched wing of my house. Having removed a piece of straw, he then pecks it until the hibernating flies drop onto the ground for him to eat ... this went on for some months and left our roof in quite a state.	An expert writes: 'You can't stop flies hibernating, and, if a woodpecker decides it will keep on attacking them, this can cause great problems to the thatch owner. The tighter the thatch the more difficult it will be for the woodpecker to get at the flies. The thatch should be netted. Check the wire netting and make sure it is really tight at the point of attack.'
I have bought a derelict thatched cottage that needs to be completely re-thatched. Is it really necessary to place felt beneath the thatch? After all, this never happened in the past. I have a friend with a 350-year-old cottage and no felt and the roof last lasted perfectly well and seems well insulated.	There are two issues here. First, if you put an underlay on top of the rafters and below the battens it will stop debris falling into the roof space. In as much as this debris constitutes a potential fire risk, underlay of some sort is, therefore, a good thing. If your house is newly built an underlay – roofing felt is the normal choice – also serves to keep the building waterproof until the thatcher arrives. In the meantime, other tradesmen can work 'in the dry' beneath. The second issue concerns the breathability – or otherwise – of underlays. If these underlays are not permeable to air will they stop the thatch 'breathing' and so make it prone to condensation and, therefore, rot.
We have had trouble with starlings that nest around the chimney of our thatched cottage. They make a terrible noise and also an awful mess around the lead flashing. Is there anything we can do to prevent this? We also have trouble with tits and sparrows that nest beneath the eaves and then have a habit of getting trapped in the wire. They panic and die. Every season we are left with a dozen or so bodies hanging down from the wire. It is a ghoulish sight. How can we prevent this?	Ask your thatcher to look under the flashing. If there is a gap in the netting - and there almost certainly will be one - ask him to remove the netting and the nests. Then all he has to do is repair the hole and replace the netting right up to the brickwork. In the case of the tits and sparrows that get caught in the netting there is nothing you can do - apart from removing the netting, which I do not advise.
Our local authority pays a grant of £540 to assist with repairs to historic buildings of irrespective of size. It seems unfair that a small thatched roof will receive the same grant as a very big roof. In other parts of the country I have heard no grants are available at all. Is it not time the grants system was regularised?	A spokesman for the National Council of Master Thatchers' Associations writes: 'The problem is that every district council in the country seems to put different amounts of money into its listed buildings repair fund. In principle, it would be very nice if the system were stabilised all over the country. Then thatch owners might at least know that they were likely to receive a certain percentage of the total repair cost. In practice, this would be very difficult to implement because, as the questioner says, some local authorities have no money at all for grants for thatch.'
Before our insurance company agreed to insure our recently acquired thatched building it insisted on a smoke alarm system being fitted and also on a fire extinguisher being placed in the kitchen. Fitting these cost £240, but there was no reduction in premium. While I am sure these devices help reduce the incidence of fire, surely there should be some consequent reduction in premium?	There are only a few companies specialising in thatch insurance. One of them insists on a smoke alarm system plus a fire extinguisher in the kitchen. The others do not. Before reinsuring, I suggest you ring around a number of companies in order to gain competitive terms.
I live in a listed thatched house, and elsewhere in the village is a pretty new thatched roof with an ornamental patterned ridge. It looks very attractive. My ridge needs redoing and I should like it done in the same way, but my local conservation officer will not allow this. This seems unfair. Can you explain what lies behind it?	As your house is listed, you will need listed building consent for any change to the style of the ridge. This is to assume that you have a plain, unadorned ridge at present. The house with the ornamental ridge probably had a ridge of the same type before. Alternatively, it might be unlisted. If you have been advised by your conservation officer that your local authority is unlikely to look sympathetically upon a change to your ridge, then, unfortunately, you must forget any idea of a change of style.
The vernacular round here is combed wheat reed but we can afford the more expensive water reed, which we are told will be acceptable to our local authority and will last a lot longer? Is this true? What do you advise?	If your building is old and has an existing combed wheat reed thatch then it will probably be covered with a number of coats. Many thatchers believe the only correct way to fix water reed to a roof is to strip that covering right back to the original timbers. However, there are some areas of the country where thatchers consider going over an existing basecoat with water reed an acceptable practice. If you wish to change to water reed you would, therefore, probably need to strip the roof completely. In this case the exposed roof frame would have to be sufficiently sturdy to withstand the fixing method for a new thatched roof, which is considerably more vigorous than that needed to coat on top of existing thatch. All other things being equal, it is generally accepted that water reed will last longer than combed wheat reed. However, the type and quality is an important matter. Your thatcher should be able to advise.
When having my listed cottage re-thatched recently I was surprised to hear that the water reed being used came from Turkey. However, my Thatcher assured me that it is a perfectly good material. The roof certainly looks wonderful now it is complete, but isn't our homegrown water reed better?	There is good, bad and indifferent water reed applied to roofs throughout the country, regardless of its origin. Certainly the trend away from homegrown reed towards imported reed has become quite marked in the last 10 years or so. There are various reasons for this, one being the perceived difficulty of getting good quality Norfolk reed outside that county throughout the year. On the other hand, imported reed tends to be available 12 months of the year. Basically, the Norfolk reed beds cannot supply all the demand all the year round.
A large patch of moss has sprung up on our thatched roof quite recently. It is most unsightly as it is confined to the front, in full view of the road. Is it serious? If so, what should I do about it?	The arrival of moss on the cold, north-facing side of an old thatched roof is not uncommon. It is caused by, amongst other things, lack of air circulation. If the moss shows signs of gaining a serious hold you should call in you thatcher. He will probably say do nothing. The danger is that if you remove the moss you might damage the thatch beneath. It is possible to use a spray, but this will not provide a permanent solution. The traditional method of preventing moss growth is to fix a copper wire on the ridge, the theory being that copper salts washed down the roof by the rain will stop the problem. If you should choose this remedy, be aware that plants below the eaves will also be subject to the copper wash and probably die.
Two questioners have asked us about the problem of lichen appearing on thatched roofs. It usually appears on the north facing. One of the questioners asks: 'The lichen has spread quite rapidly. Does it matter? What action should I take, if any?'	Lichen will occur when certain conditions occur. Basically, there are three of these - moisture, clean air and the beginning of the breakdown of the thatch. The latter occurs when the top surface loses its consistency due to biological action after a number of years. It can, therefore, be a sign that the top coat of the thatch is approaching the end of its life. At this stage of the life of a thatched roof, lichen grows first, followed by moss. It is impossible to give a generalised answer as to whether you should remove it; this depends on so many factors. To remove the lichen you have to undertake a physical process - scraping - which can cause harm to the roof. Many thatchers, therefore, advise spraying with a proprietary product, such as a garden moss killer. This will kill the lichen, but not remove it. With either of these methods, the lichen growth will return if the conditions that encourage it persist - which they are likely to. A traditional method of putting an end to it is the one used to prevent moss growth. This is to fix a copper wire in an invisible position beneath some of the hazel rodding on the ridge. The copper salts washed down the roof by the rain will probably kill the lichen spores and so stop growth. The only problem is that the salts will also probably kill all plants growing at ground level beneath the eaves.
What is sedge? and when is it used by thatchers in this country?	Sedge is a vigorous, razor-edged marsh grass that is often used for the ridges on water reed roofs. Water reed is not suitable for ridging as it is not sufficiently pliable. As sedge grows in the same habitat as water reed, it is often seen capping roofs of that material. However, sedge can be harvested only every seven years, and, unlike water reed, none is imported. So, although it is a very durable material, it is relatively uncommon. Sedge will last longer on a ridge than long straw or combed wheat reed, but it will need re-rodding with hazel spars from time to time as it will outlive the hazel. Because of its durability and comparative rarity, sedge is a more expensive material than long straw and combed wheat reed.
Why do some thatched roofs have wire netting protecting them, and others not?	Wire netting is applied to a newly-thatched roof to prevent bird attack. It is not there to hold the thatch on. Do not employ a thatcher who tells you this! With long straw wire netting is always put on the whole of the roof and this is also usually the case with combed wheat reed. However, in some parts of the country, especially Devon, combed wheat reed roofs are traditionally rarely netted. Water reed roofs, with the exception of the ridge, are rarely netted, with the exception of very exposed areas of the country, where the gables and hips are often netted in order to prevent wind damage. If you should have a water reed roof that has never been netted and your thatcher advises that the time has come to net it the reason is probably that the netting will add a little extra strength that will allow the reed to last a few more years before the top coat is replaced.
Two thatched property owners have asked about how to convert their loft space into a room, the problem being that this involves constructing a sloping ceiling straight onto thatch.	Both a master thatcher and a historic buildings expert agreed that it is unnecessary to leave any gap between the under surface of the thatch and the new lining. This will merely encourage draughts – always prone to come up under the eaves of a thatched roof – to circulate. The thatcher also pointed out that with a single coat thatch, which will be the case if a thatched property is newly-built or if, in recent years, the roof has been completely stripped and re-thatched, air can be blown through the reeds. Any membrane will help to stop that draught – and that includes underfelt, should it have been applied at the building stage. The opinion of both experts is that, in an old thatched property, there is nothing to beat the 'like with like' treatment of a traditional lime plaster applied direct to the underside of the thatch. Be sure to key it in well - either using oak, hazel or modern, sawn pine laths. Do not use expanded metal beneath a lime plaster: it is a material that remains flexible for some days after application. Any vibration could cause the metal lathing to slice through the lime plaster and cause it all to fall off.
I have just moved into a thatched cottage for the first time. I have had three craftsmen come round to see me and all say they are 'master thatchers'. I have consulted our local Yellow Pages to seek out more names, only to find nearly all the local thatching companies describe themselves as 'master thatchers'. I am feeling rather confused.	Anyone can describe him or herself as a 'master thatcher' – so it can indeed be very confusing. The general public would generally understand the term to refer to a person who is a master of his (or her) craft. However, thatching, having historically been closely allied to the farming industry rather than a trade in its own right, never had apprentices with master pieces to display as part of their formal training. Other people interpret the term master to mean 'own boss'. But that is irrelevant to the issue. The situation becomes even more confused when you realise that there are 12 local master thatcher's associations in the UK and two national thatcher's bodies. There is even more confusion when you consider that some excellent thatchers are members of no trade association at all!
How can I be sure of finding a good thatcher whom I can really trust?	It is likely that the better thatcher's in your area will belong to your local Master Thatchers' Association. As a first port of call it would, therefore, be wise to contact that body for advice. You will probably find the address at your local library. If you cannot find it, ring the National Council of Master Thatchers'. If you are new to thatch, or new to the area, ask for recommendations from nearby thatch owners. When you find one or more thatchers who you are thinking of employing go and see examples of their previous work. Have a word with the people in those houses and make sure that their work has lasted at least 15 years. Alternatively, you could always join the Thatched Property Association on 0800 2984379, where you will receive personal and helpful advice.
I am growing a field of barley and wonder if the straw would be of any use for thatching?	A university botanist, who is doing research into all the materials used for thatching roofs in the UK and Ireland, said that, generally speaking, barley straw is little used for thatching in this country as it does not have the strength of wheat straw. 'However if you cut your barley a little early and harvest it by hand it should be possible to thatch a roof with it, although it will not last as long as a good wheat or a good rye.' In the Republic of Ireland, he said, oat straw is widely used. 'A good oat straw will outperform a bad wheat,' he said. 'Rye is also extremely widely used in Eire,' he said. 'I have also known rye used as a surface coat in Berkshire in the past 25 years, though it was used in England far more in the past.'
I am delighted with the thatched roof on my new house but the process of building the roof structure was long and tortuous. When the thatcher arrived for the first time, he said the structure could not be thatched. The builder had to return and alter much of the carpentry. What had gone wrong?	Placed in this position, a conscientious thatcher has two options. He can tell the householder that he will thatch the roof but it will not last long - or he can suggest the client has the roof rebuilt in such a way that it will take a long-lasting thatch. The main problem is that architects so often design roofs to modern specifications, with large windows that are unsuited to thatch, which lends itself to small, dormer windows. Architects also sometime fail to realise that thatch needs a steeper pitch than a tile or slate roof if it is to be fully effective - if the run-off is to be rapid and the material long-lasting. The other factor that is often forgotten by architects is that the design should allow for a roof covering that is approximately 12 inches thick. If the roof design does not take this into account, the windows will be eclipsed. At worst, the thatch will come up several inches above the level of the glass panes! As this would clearly be ludicrous, the thatcher, in these circumstances, has to tile beneath the window, or install a huge mass of lead. Neither are true to the original design. If you are building a new house that is to be thatched you should make sure your architect knows how to tackle this. It is wise to involve your thatcher at the design stage.
The wheat reed thatch in our cottage is 15-years-old. The ridge was replaced three years ago. Over the past few months a very large area of thatch has become speckled with moss and, on one edge, a different type if moss is growing, which is about half-an-inch tall and a pale silvery colour. Is there a spray I can use to kill the moss?	The different type of moss sound like lichen. A proprietary moss killer will kill the growth but not remove it. Removing it by hand may do more harm than good as it will disturb the thatch. Probably all you can do is learn to live with it. It sounds like a natural stage in the ageing process of the roof after 15 years, particularly if it is on the north side and there is poor air movement.
Is it possible to install guttering beneath thatch? When I was young I was in the building trade and used to fix v-type wooden guttering. It was held in place by iron brackets. You never see this type of guttering nowadays – nor indeed any guttering beneath thatch. Why not?	Guttering is not usually attached to thatch. The purpose of guttering on conventional roofs is to keep wet away from the base of the walls. Thatch always has an overhang so guttering is not necessary. However, some people do not like water dripping down their necks from the edge of the thatch as they enter their homes after it has rained. The answer is to build a porch - or fix guttering. With thatch you need a really wide gutter, as the material wears down with age. Therefore, after a few years, a narrow gutter will not catch the water. Conventionally, guttering for thatch, when fixed, was v-shaped (or sometimes box-shaped) and made from timber. It was often lined with lead or zinc. You can still find guttering like this, but most thatchers consider it unnecessary, and very unsightly.
On the oldest section of our reed thatch we are getting patches of what looks like grass sprouting up to two inches in height. It occurs only on the north-east elevation - presumably because this is the side that gets the least sun and so is presumably damper than the other sides. This section is in excess of 30-years-old but, generally, is in fairly good condition. Can you recommend a way in which we might get rid of this grass?	There are several points here. The growth could be grass, but it is more like to be germinating seeds – probably wheat seeds contained within the thatch. Any good weedkiller should be effective. The wheat seeds might have been in the thatch since it was applied (unlikely in a reed roof), but more probably they have been dropped by passing birds. If the roof is in poor condition these weeds may gain a hold. If so, call in your thatcher to discover the underlying cause. It may just be that, as your roof is ageing, it is becoming a garden – the natural process for thatch as it gets older. An alternative theory is that the roof has recently been re-ridged in wheat straw and wheat seeds in it have been dropping down and germinating.
Our porch was re-thatched in the mid-Nineties. A few months later it started to sprout green shoots. I asked the thatcher about this and he said it would soon die and advised me to ignore the problem. The shoots died back in the summer, only to grow again in February after a few wet, sunny weeks. It is unsightly. Surely this is not normal?	This is almost certainly grains of wheat lodged in the thatch. If it is long straw, they will be on or near the surface. If it is combed wheat reed or water reed thatch with a straw ridge, they will grow near the surface on the ridge only. The answer is almost certainly that, after a few wet weeks, water has penetrated slightly further into the thatch and reached some of the buried grain. Your thatcher is correct. It will die off. This is a quite common occurrence on thatch.
My insurance company has offered me a discount if I install a spark suppresser on the chimney of my open fire in which I burn wood with some coal. When I approached a specialist firm in this field, it advised against installing spark suppressers on the grounds that it believed these devices were more likely to cause fires than prevent them. I have consulted my chimney sweep, who recommends a liner. What is your view?	This subject is a minefield. Spark arresters are fitted to the top of chimneys. It is necessary to remove them and clean them fairly regularly. For this, and other reasons, most sweeps do not like them. They can also become sticky with tar, a process that can affect the drawing qualities of the flue. There are various types of chimney liners - all of which have their merits and drawbacks. But, if the flues are kept in good condition, you should not need any of those devices. I suggest you contact your insurance company and ask why they recommend a spark arrester. Point out that some insurance companies are asking customers not to fix these devises. If you do not want to fit one, you can change to another insurance company.
I have lived under thatch for 40 years, during which time we have had our wire mesh replaced three times. I have heard that there are other forms of mesh that are more effective and last longer. Can you please advise?	Heavyweight nylon netting has been used in some coastal locations, where galvanised wire can be severely attacked by the salt in the air. Thatchers in Leicestershire and Buckinghamshire have also used it. However, it is much more difficult to fix to the rood than galvanised wire and is not as rigid, meaning that it can give the thatch less protection against wind damage, vermin and birds. We advise thatch owners to go for a good quality wire mesh, manufactured to British standards, which should last 20 years.
My roof was re-thatched in long straw four years ago. It is securely wired but I have a problem with magpies. They peck the straw and damage the wire mesh. Squirrels also cause damage. One even got inside the mesh. What should I do?	A determined squirrel can part galvanised wire at the seam, but not the heavier gauge mesh if it is in good condition and joined together well. This problem usually arises only when the wire is broken and torn. If the netting is in good condition and it is still happening there is not a lot you can do apart from trying bird scarers or buying a cat.
I live in a 17th century thatched cottage that is about to been re-thatched. At present, it is thatched in combed wheat reed and the material is several feet thick. My thatcher tells me he does not need to remover all the old thatch but to coat on top of the existing material. Is this normal practice?	Both combed wheat reed and long straw have traditionally be re-applied on top of existing basecoats. However, it is important to ensure the basecoat to which the new thatch is fixed is sound and dry. This normally means removing at least the previous topcoat, and, in many instances, further coats, particularly if the roof has been allowed to become very thick and, therefore, heavy.
I have just bought a thatched property for the first time. What are the best ways I can guard against fire?	There are some sensible precautions anyone living under thatch can take: If you have open fires, be sure to have the chimney swept at least twice a year. Nearly all thatch fires starts in and around the chimney area and the cause is usually to be found in faulty flues. Hot gases and burning embers can easily find their way through small gaps in faulty brickwork. A way round this is to line the chimney. It is also wise to ensure that the chimney pot at the top of the stack is at least a metre above the ridge line of the thatch. This ensures that any large sparks being emitted will almost certainly be extinguished before falling onto the roof. It is also wise to look inside the roof void from time to time and to ensure there is no fallen thatch debris near electric cables. If you have electric cables running through the roof void have them checked by a competent electrician. Externally, you should avoid bonfires in the vicinity of the thatch.
How does thatch actually work? Why is the water simply not absorbed by the material in the roof?	A piece of straw left lying on the ground horizontally will decay relatively quickly because it does not dry out fast. The same piece of straw as part of the thatched roof, surrounded by thousands of others, will not absorb as much water because of the compactness of the thatch and also the pitch angle at which it is lying. The pitch of the materials is one of the most important features of a well-thatched roof. The slacker the pitch angle the more slowly the straw or reed dries out. Moisture is a prerequisite for thatch decay, and, therefore, the good thatcher will aim to get his thatch to dry as quickly as possible.
I have heard it said that long straw does not last as long as either combed wheat reed or water reed and yet I understand I will obtain a grant from my local authority to replace my ageing combed wheat reed roof only if I convert to long straw. What should I do?	There is some dispute among thatchers as to the relative longevity of combed wheat reed and long straw. There are areas where straw rods generally last between 15 and 20 years. However, long straw thatchers in different parts of the country claim this is a question of poor technique and that long straw is not an inherently inferior material. If your local authority has a policy of aiming to restore combed wheat reed roofs in its area back to long straw and has decided to grant aid only for proposals of that type there is little you can do about it. However, if you are prepared to forego the grant aid (which may not be a large proportion of the total bill) you are free to replace ageing combed wheat reed by a new combed wheat reed roof and there is little your local authority can do to stop you.
I recently had our cottage re-thatched with long straw. Since then, bits have been pulled out. At first, I had two dead crows attached to the roof because it was thought that the damage was caused by birds and this would deter them. When this made little difference, we called in out local pest control officer, who put down some bait. We also put down mouse traps. However, we have caught no mice. Our thatcher still thinks the problem is caused by birds and he has installed a large plastic owl on the roof. Is it normal to have so much trouble after a roof is re-thatched and have you ever heard of putting a plastic owl on the roof?	Because of the way long straw is laid and the nature of the material it is quite possible that some of the loose straw is being pulled out by birds. Assuming the roof is properly netted this is a minor problem and there should be no permanent damage. Bird attack is unlikely to be serious in the long term, but vermin attack can be a completely different matter, especially if rats are involved. The signs of vermin attack are if the pieces of loose straw have evidence of being gnawed. If you believe this is the case you should again contact the pest control officer at your local council and ask for firmer measures to be taken. With regard to bird scarers I have heard of many different techniques but never a plastic owl on the roof!
Is added insulation needed under thatch? It was never used in the past. Why should it be needed today?	If additional insulation is paced beneath the rafters, we believe that you are simply repeating the work of the thatch, which in itself is an excellent insulator.
We are considering building a new house and thatching the roof. I have heard there are several methods of fire protection that can be used beneath thatch when it is used to roof new buildings. Can you advise?	If you install any fire barrier beneath the thatch try to use a method that is vapour permeable and does not encourage condensation to form beneath the barrier and the thatch. The current thinking is that if you install an impervious barrier between the thatch and the roof timbers condensation is likely to form on the barrier and not the thatch from the inside. If you are given no option but to install an impervious barrier you should encourage airflow within the roof by leaving a gap beneath the eave.
I have heard that there is a new thatching material called Veldt grass, which is imported from South Africa and is better than existing thatching materials. Can you please enlighten me?	Veldt grass has been imported to the UK from South Africa for a number of years. On the roof it looks rather like combed wheat reed but enthusiasts say it lasts a lot longer. It is mainly to be seen in Dorset, though thatchers in Sussex, Wiltshire, Hampshire, Cambridge and Devon are also starting to use it. It remains to be seen if it will, in fact, last longer than combed wheat reed, but those that have used it speak well of it. In price, it compares with combed wheat reed. There are those who scoff at importing thatching material when we are able to grow it ourselves, but it should be borne in mind that much water reed nowadays is bought from Austria, Hungary and Turkey, and there seem to be few complaints about either its appearance or its longevity.
Having lived under thatch for two years, I am interested in observing other thatches when travelling round the UK. But I still find it hard to identify the different types of thatch from the ground. Can you help?	The most obvious difference you should be able to recognise is that between long straw and either of the two reeds - the true reed (water reed) or combed wheat reed. Long straw has a much shaggier look, with mixed ears and butts apparent on the surface and longer lengths of stem showing. Long straw also has rod work fixed at the eaves and gable ends. This is functional, not merely decorative. Its purpose is to keep the eaves firm and to assist with the final cutting of the material. This process is unnecessary with combed wheat reed and water reed. It is more difficult to distinguish between combed wheat reed and water reed as these two forms of thatch are laid in a similar fashion, with only the butt ends visible. You will rarely find rod work on either, and, where it is used, it is purely for decorative purposes. To distinguish between combed wheat reed and water reed, look at the eaves of the building to see if the material has been cut or dressed to shape. If it has been dressed - ie, knocked into shape - it is water reed, because this is a much more rigid material than combed wheat reed. Netting is also an aid to identification of the type of material on a roof. Long straw is invariably netted. Combed wheat reed is sometimes netted, depending on local practice and tradition. Water reed roofs are rarely netted, except in very exposed sites, where it is felt the wind might lift the reed. Also, some thatchers like to net sections of water reed thatch - perhaps the hip and gable ends - that might be vulnerable to wind damage. Ridges are invariably netted. This is because the fixings are exposed, leaving them vulnerable to wind damage.
What are the broad regional variations in thatch?	There are two issues here: their material and the style. Until relatively recently, different materials were used in quite distinct areas of the country. The prime examples were the preponderance of combed wheat reed in the West Country, with long straw virtually unknown, while in East Anglia long straw or water reed were common. In the middle of the country you would traditionally find all three materials used widely. Of the three, combed wheat reed is the material that has encroached to the greatest degree. However, over the past 40 years or so things have changed. Thatchers have become far more mobile, often working 'out of area' and taking their materials with them. In addition, there was a period in the Fifties when fewer thatchers were trained in long straw work in some parts of the country. Long straw thatching requires a different technique from thatching in water reed or combed wheat reed. In general, it is far easier for a reed thatcher to work in either water reed or combed wheat reed because the technique is essentially the same. As far as style is concerned, in different areas of the country thatchers using the same material will use different techniques that will give varying outlines to roofs. An example of this is water reed. In East Anglia this is applied in a way that gives a very angular outline to the roof. In the West Country water reed is applied in a manner that gives a roof a far more rounded, 'tea cosy' look. Eave detail also varies from area to area. Devon thatch tends to have waves that are squared off, while other counties – Hampshire is a good example – generally sport eaves that are cut at an angle.
Although the main body of my combed wheat reed roof appears to be in good condition, the section in front of the chimney appears to have deteriorated more rapidly. I have a mortar fillet applied directly onto the thatch around the chimney. Would lead flashing have been a better option?	Yes! One of the problems that can arise with a mortar fillet is that, as the thatch wears away, the fillet does not move and can leave a gap between the thatch and the chimney brickwork leaving the possibility of water getting underneath. Generally, mortar fillets will throw water only a short distance away from the chimney. Lead flashings, on the other hand, will distribute water further from the suspect area and also tend to move with the wearing thatch. If a particularly large mortar fillet is applied the weight of the unsupported fillet can, in some circumstances, cause it to break away from the chimney, allowing water to run down the outside edge of the stack and eventually penetrate inside the building.
I wish to build new in thatch and have been told that I must have a fire barrier between the thatch and the roof. What do you advise?	Current thinking is that barriers that are impenetrable to water vapour could cause premature decay to thatch. So go for one that is permeable to water. If you are forced to use a non-breathable membrane, be sure to leave a 50mm gap between the membrane and the underside of the thatch and also a gap at the eaves to allow for air circulation. The advantage of putting a fire barrier on top of the rafters than beneath is obvious. Should there be a fire it will help prevent water from fire hoses penetrating the building and causing almost as much damage as the fire.
I am about to have my house re-thatched. One of the thatchers I have asked for a quote has told me that I shall require scaffolding. This would add a considerable amount to the cost of the work. Is it really essential?	Traditionally, thatchers have always worked from ladders. However, health and safety regulations now insist that any substantial work done on a roof with a vertical drop from eaves to ground level of more than two metres requires scaffolding. Inevitably, this cost is passed onto the thatch owner.